How Do You Lay Artificial Grass Properly?

 

Laying artificial grass looks simple in a thirty-second video. In practice, the job lives or dies on the part you don't see: the ground underneath. Get that wrong and the lawn ripples within two summers.

This guide walks through the full process so you know what good work looks like, whether you're doing it yourself or checking a fitter's quote.

What Do You Need Before You Start?

Preparation is most of the job. You'll need to clear the existing lawn, sort out drainage, and gather the right materials before any turf goes down.

The basic kit list:

•      A turf cutter or spade to lift the old lawn

•      MOT Type 1 for the sub-base

•      Granite dust or sharp sand for the laying course

•      A weed membrane

•      Joining tape and adhesive for seams

•      Galvanised pins for the edges

•      Kiln-dried sand infill

How Do You Prepare the Ground?

Start by removing the top 50–75mm of existing lawn and soil. This makes room for the sub-base that gives the lawn its shape and stability.

Lay a weed membrane over the cleared soil. Then spread MOT Type 1 across the area, around 50mm, and compact it hard with a plate compactor. This is the layer that stops the lawn moving.

On top of that goes 25mm of granite dust or sharp sand, screeded flat. This laying course is what you get a smooth, level finish from. Skip it and every lump shows through the turf.

How Do You Lay the Grass Itself?

Roll the turf out and let it settle for an hour or two so it relaxes. Always lay every piece with the pile facing the same direction, or the joins will catch the light differently and stand out.

Where two pieces meet, use joining tape and adhesive, keeping the gap tight. Trim the edges with a sharp knife and fix them down with galvanised pins every 100mm or so.

If you'd rather follow a detailed walkthrough with photos before you commit, this guide to how to lay artificial grass yourself covers each stage and the tools you'll want to hand.

Do You Need Infill?

Most installs benefit from a kiln-dried sand infill brushed into the pile. It weighs the lawn down, keeps the blades upright, and helps with fire resistance and drainage.

Brush it in across the surface and work it down between the fibres. A stiff broom does the job. The pile should stand up again once the sand settles in.

What Mistakes Should You Avoid?

The big one is laying straight onto soil. No sub-base means an uneven, moving lawn that ripples and dips fast. The second is a thin compacting job, where the Type 1 isn't pressed down hard enough.

Other common slips:

•      Laying pieces with the pile facing different ways

•      Leaving gaps at the seams that open up later

•      Forgetting drainage falls on a flat, clay-heavy garden

•      Under-pinning the edges so they lift

Should You Lay It Yourself or Hire a Fitter?

A small, square, flat garden is a fair DIY job if you're happy hiring a plate compactor and putting in the graft. The groundwork is heavy, but the steps are clear once you've got the materials ready.

Larger gardens, awkward shapes, and clay-heavy ground with drainage problems are where a professional crew earns their fee. They get the falls right, cut the joins cleanly, and the finish tends to last longer. Weigh the saving against the risk of a lawn that ripples in a year.

How Long Does It Take?

A typical garden takes one to two days. Most of that is groundwork, not the turf. The laying itself is quick once the base is right, which tells you where the effort really goes.

Final Thoughts

Laying artificial grass well is mostly about the ground beneath it. Take the time on the sub-base, keep the pile direction consistent, and pin the edges properly. Do the unseen work right and the lawn stays flat and tidy for well over a decade.